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CENTER DRAFT LAMPS
Photos, illustrations and some
Table lamps - Hanging Lamps - Banquet Lamps
- Jr. Lamps
Center Draft Lamp Wicks - Lamp Fuel -
Kerosene Heater Wicks
Photos of Restored Lamps
The Ultimate Center Draft Lamp
Flame Spreaders and "Smoke
from Alex Marrack
Care, Feeding and Restoration of Center Draft Lamps
For photos of more lamps, please see the Photo Album
I have tight weave English-made wicks
in stock for
almost all circular wick, center draft lamps,
including B&H, Rayo, Rayo Jr., P&A, Royal, Juno, all Miller's, Manhattan Student Lamp,
Veritas, Hinks, L&B,
etc. See wick photo at the bottom of
From just after the Civil War until WW I, some of
America's finest minds were busy creating the most efficient - and
beautiful! - lighting ever created. In that era before home
electric lighting, center draft lamps were the ultimate in interior
lighting. Every size, shape and design of lamps were designed and
produced. In general, table (also called "stand") lamps were the
most popular because of price and availability. Banquet lamps were
taller, more ornate, and often had an insert fount for fuel.
To top things off, hanging lamps of ever size were made, from tiny lamps
to the huge "mammoth" lamps. Most of the lamps made during the
Victorian Era were strong, well designed lamps that are still
serviceable today. Notables include the designers for Edward
Miller, some of whom should be candidates for sainthood, and "engineers"
for Ansonia, some of whom should be hung in effigy for crimes against
Table or "stand" lamps were made from the
smallest "0" size for great fuel efficiency to larger, more ornate
versions. The lamp in the center foreground is a Tiny
Juno Hand Lamp. Far left is an ABC lamp, apparently
produced pre-war in Europe, probably by the successors to
Hugo Schneider's factories, as it is a steel lamp rather
than brass. Middle is a Miller Vestal #1, right center
a Success. Back left a P&A Royal, a B&H 1904 Perfection
(it became the Rayo in 1906), and far back right is my Hugo
Schneider - the last remaining 30''' "Blitz" table lamp in
A collection of large table
lamps to show relative size. Left to right: Den Haan 14''',
B&H Trophy (insert fount), Hugo Schneider (insert fount),
New Rochester size 0 pedestal, Veritas duplex, L&B 14'''
pedestal, L&B 20''', Hinks 45 cp Annular, P&A Royal, B&H
Imperial Banquet (insert), and Success Stand Lamp #2.
Just when you have it all figured out,
along comes a ringer to disprove all theories. All
table lamps have a solid fount and are made of brass.
Wrong. At right is a Hugo Schneider table lamp...which
is made of steel and has an insert fount! This is
reported to be the last "Blitz" table lamp left in the
world. My Schneider was fabulously restored and has a
new nickel plating by Dave Ward of
The Village Lamp
Another rare table lamp. British
Hinks with an "Annular" (circular) wick. This lamp
could well have been a "one off," made especially for a
client. It has a large fount fitted with a 45 cp burner,
and uses a
Success/Belgian 20''' #1S wick.
Above, far right, shows this Hinks lamp
burning with a shade. Dark photo, but the photo shows
the incredible size of this lamp compared to a few other table
lamps. This huge lamp is over 18" high and the base is 7" in
diameter: over 5 pounds of solid brass!
This Hinks Annular 45cp
has that unique feature of Hinks lamps
- the Morton's patent iris fill cap, and a key lift
gallery - the lamp can be lighted without removing the
chimney and shade. [Flame spreader for this
and the Veritas lamp above are from from Alex
Hanging lamps were produced in all sizes. Illustrated at right are Miller lamps: Rochester Store Lamp, second model (1887), with wick adjusting rod
accessible from the bottom, 4" base chimney; Miller Juno, #2 burner, 2 5/8" chimney; and far right, a Tiny Miller, "0" size burner,
1.572" base chimney. The Miller "Dresden" (photo below) was sized between the store lamp and the #2 Juno,
but the wick adjusting rod hates being poked into a table so it was not included in this photo.
At left is a Miller "Dresden", which with a different flame
spreader was an "Empress" or a Liberty 2/0. Similar
lamps were the B&H Radiant #5 and the P&A Plumwood. These
lamps used an extremely efficient burner and flame spreader
design to produce almost as much light as a "mammoth" lamp -
for 1/3rd the fuel consumed. All were affordable
copies of the Belgian lamp. The "Little Jewel" on the
right is one of the smallest hanging lamps ever made.
Dave Ward made the harp, restored the lamp, then plated
the lamp, harp and shade holder with rose gold.
At right, a beautiful Juno #3 Store lamp
owned by Alex Muzyka. Far right, a
collection of store lamps. Foreground, left, a Little Jewel
and a Tiny Miller. Second row is a P&A Plumwood, a
Radiant #5 and a Dresden. Far back right side is a
Globe Incandescent #2.
Tiny Miller Hanging Lamp, on right.
As purchased it was probably intended as a wall lamp to fit
into a bracket. There were Tiny Miller lamps sold in
harps or hangers, but the harps or hangers are extremely rare.
Dave Ward make the hanger shown on
the right made to match an old catalog illustration.
The size is illustrated by hanging the lamp beside a Miller
Dresden #2 - the relative sizes and shapes were kept in almost
perfect symmetry. Click on a photos to enlarge them.
Unique Veritas hanging lamp. Slightly
pink original shade, twisted brass rods supporting of the
hanging fount frame. The burner uses a #1S wick - the
same wick as Success,
B&H Radiant #4,
Hinks 45 cp and
Belgian 20''' lamps.
The lamp burns beautifully,
but lighting requires removal of the chimney and filling the
fount requires removal of the shade as well. This lamp
is in want of a lift gallery
like the Hinks shown above. [Flame Spreaders for
Veritas lamps, Lempereur & Bernard (L&B) Brevette lamps
(Belgian), and Imperial/Vulcan lamps are available from
Alex Marrack in England.]
And here is more than just
the lift gallery for my hanging Veritas! This unique Veritas
gallery has the lift and also unique petals which drop over
the wick as a flame extinguisher. Near right, the petals
shown dropped to cover the wick, and far right, the lift
system shows the petals in the "up" position. The flame
spreader has been removed. Key lifts the gallery; lever at the
back lifts a collar to deploy the petals.
Blitz Lampe", made by Bunt & Remmler in Frankfurt.
Note the very unusual flared chimney. This lamp also has an
air regulator on the base of the central draft tube!
This is a hanging lamp set in a basket stand for
photography. As with my B&H Imperial lamp, according to all
reference material available this lamp does not exist - yet
Alex Muzyka has one! These are the first recorded
photographs of this exceedingly rare lamp. Thanks, Alex!
Click on photos to enlarge
1886 Rochester Store Lamp
A classic store lamp - plain hanger, simple steel band to hold the fount, metal shade, 4" chimney. This 1st Model Rochester (1886) has a
pull-rod wick raising system while the 2nd Model (1887) has a bottom lift rod (comparison photo). Far right: B&H #89 and the 1st Model Rochester. The B&H #89
was replated by Dave Ward, the Rochester has the original nickel plate. ( 2nd Model lighted.)
Banquet Lamps (A work
in progress, sorry)
Three different circular wick lamps illustrated
above. At left is a B & H "Trophy" lamp with a
Radiant #4 burner, quite unusual and ornate. In the center is a
Parker banquet lamp with insert font. The B&H
"Trophy" lamp on the right has been electrified, but in an emergency the
socket can be pulled out, the flame spreader put back in, the lamp
fueled, and in less than an hour it is again a working fuel lamp: This
particular B&H "Trophy" lamp is an extremely rare insert fount Radiant
#4, undated, with only "Patent Applied For" on the wick raising knob: no
photograph is shown in Courter's "Center Draft Kerosene Lamps 1884 -
1940" of an insert-fount banquet lamp with a Radiant #4 burner.
Because of the tall shades, this lamps must wear my
|Brass pedestal banquet lamp lineup. L - R. Parker, Hinks Annular, Veritas, Young's Court, B&H Imperial. Some people prefer to
collect ceramic banquet lamps ("GWTW"). I prefer brass.
Please note these lamps were
primarily designed as reading
lamps, not area lighting lamps, although some of the banquet lamps were very tall and designed to light up a huge banquet room. Many center draft lamps with a removable font were
tall so they would spread light down and around a whole table so reading
was possible from every side of the table. This feature is best
illustrated by the scene in the movie "Gone With The Wind," where just
after the intermission the women are all sitting around a table reading
while waiting for their men to return from cleaning out shantytown.
That is why these lamps are often referred to as "GWTW" lamps even though the movie "set" was wrong - the first of these lamps were not in general use until 20 years after the Civil War.
Circular wick, center draft lamps should be burned at
maximum light output to properly heat the flame spreader to burn up all
fumes. If used turned down to minimum light output, they
will produce an aroma when burning, but not when properly
adjusted for maximum light output. For simple area lighting, a
standard #2 burner flat wick lamp is sufficient, and the old "Eagle"
and "Banner" burners made by P & A are by far the best designs.
At left, my B & H
"Imperial" banquet lamp, designed for placement in the
middle of a long banquet table to not only light up a formal
banquet room, but reflect well on the owner. This lamp
is well over 2 feet high excluding the chimney. Patent
date 1884. The Imperial burner unit is extremely rare,
actually being a Kosmos-Brenner burner made by Wild & Wessel
(Germany) using a 3 5/8" wide wick. This is an extremely rare
non-circular wick B&H banquet lamp.
The P & A Royal lamp on
the right has a 14" high hand painted ceramic base.
The yardstick shows the size of this lamp, but it is still
less tall than the lamp on the left.
Kosmos-Brenner lamps can be considered as center
draft lamps for these illustrations because of the end result, but the wicks are flat. There is
a separate page illustrating
The size of these lamps is deceptive in the
photographs...the ruby glass shade on the B&H Radiant #4 lamp at right is 14"
wide! The lamp itself is over 16" wide. I just cannot
make the beautiful ruby color of the lamp shade appear correctly
with my cheap digital camera. The silver B & H parlor lamp has a beautiful 8" shade, the right
size for the design. Click on the photos to enlarge.
These large center draft lamps will burn kerosene, but they
were actually designed to burn "low odor mineral spirits."
The same "lamp fuel" is available today, but marked "Paint
Thinner with Low Odor Mineral Spirits." ["Low
Odor" then meant low sulfur content.] It works just
as well in center draft Kosmos lamps with the #15 burner
with flame spreader or an Aladdin lamp. Virtually no odor, no tar buildup,
wicks seldom have to be trimmed, the flame is a nice bright white
(see lamp above on the left), and it's less expensive than hardware store kerosene! It also stores
At right is a Parker banquet lamp. Years ago I acquired a Parker insert fount in perfect condition, then waited and waited to find a
good Parker banquet lamp which had been electrocuted. Finally found one, and it was worth the wait. Thankfully no holes had been drilled in the base for an
electrical switch. The butchered fount was removed and replaced with my working fount, and presto, this beautiful Parker banquet lamp was back to original in
it's full glory! This lamp will burn on the dining room table in celebration of Christmas, 2009, probably the first time it has been lighted in many decades.
Height to shade ring - 20"; to top of ball shade - 27"; to top of chimney - 31". Pedestal appears to be white onyx.
Photo taken before I had special
5/8" x 12" borosilicate chimneys made for banquet lamps
with ball shades.
This lamp uses wick #2L.
JUNIOR AND OTHER CENTER DRAFT LAMPS
Center draft lamps came with wick diameters of "Baby," at 5/8", to
huge "store lamps" requiring a 2 9/16" diameter wick. Many of
these lamps were works of art and survived the lack of suitable wicks
simply for that factor. Now I have wicks for virtually all of them!
|Left to Right. Center draft Globe Vulcan "O" Table Lamp. Made by Wild & Wessel in Berlin for Catterson's, circa 1890's. Ditmar "Arde" pedestal lamp, Vienna,
Austria, circa 1890's. Tiny Juno Table Lamp, circa 1895. Jr. Rochester Finger Lamp, circa 1886. Miller Jr. Finger Lamp, circa 1892. Baby
Rochester, size ½. Circa 1890 "Patn applied for." Extremely rare. Tiny Miller Finger Lamp, circa 1893. Tiny B&H Table Lamp, circa 1895. New Rochester
Jr. Table Lamp, circa 1895. New Juno #1 Table Lamp, circa 1895. Miller #1 Vestal Table Lamp, circa 1910. Whale Oil Lamp to show size comparison.
|Miller Finger Lamp, owned
by Alex Muzyka
Click on any photo below to enlarge it.
Assortment of miniature lamps using wick
#0L: From left to right: Rochester mini finger lamp, Plume &
Atwood "Little Royal", Bradley & Hubbard finger lamp, Guadard
15''' Matador lamp and cut off a little in the picture, a
Plume & Atwood nickel plated "Little Royal" with 6" shade.
Owned by Alex Muzyka.
|At left, Rayo Jr: Flame spreader; lamp
lighted. Photographed by Alex Muzyka. Now mine!
Just to prove there are no absolutes when it
comes to center draft lamps, the photo at right shows Miller
Hand Lamps in size 0, 1 and size 2 (far left).
Photo courtesy of Stuart Driver of the
Miller & Company of Meriden, CT, USA
Junior lamp lineup: Far left: Rayo Junior;
2nd from left: Miller Juno Junior; 3rd from left: Bradley &
Hubbard Junior; Right: Plume & Atwood Royal finger lamp (As
far as I know, the only size #1 finger lamp. Everyone else
made only size #0 finger lamps). Owned and photographed by
|Lempereur & Bernard (L&B) Brevette lamp
unlighted. Owned by Alex Muzyka.
Flame spreader from
|At left is a Success Stand Lamp
#2. In the "Pilabrasgo Success Oil Lamps catalogue #13 this
is referred to as an "S-Success, Stand Lamp Solid Brass, Nickel
Plated, with Success Centre Draft Burner and Chimney. Height
to top of Chimney, 22". It was just Pittsburgh Brass Co.
from 1889 to 1898, then became PIttsburgh LAmp,
BRASs and Glass CO or "PILABRASGO".
So this Success lamp most likely dates from sometime in the
1890's. It is in perfect condition.
The new wick is shown at right burning brightly.
From left: Veritas 20''' table lamp:
Veritas 20''' lamp with drop-in font; Unknown lamp very
similar to a Success Stand Lamp, maker unknown. Owned by Alex
A rare Miller Dresden #2 hanging lamp.
A "store" hanging lamp font but using a burner requiring a 1
1/2" wick - #2B - thicker than a Rayo wick but not as thick as a P&A Royal
wick. These large lamps used the same wick raising
mechanism as the New Juno. The Miller Empress is
virtually identical but uses a different flame spreader.
Circa late 1890's to early 1900's.
From my collection.
[Note: The Dresden #1 and Empress #2
were stand lamps.; The Dresden #2, Liberty #2 and
Empress #3 were hanging lamps - all used a wide-base flame
spreader. The Liberty #1 (both stand & hanging fount)
used a post-type flame spreader like the L&B. The
burners were apparently copies of the L&B Belgian 20'''.]
|At left, rare B & H Model 89 "store" lamp, and unlit. Owned
by Alex Muzyka.
Note the very unusual 4 1/2" fitter, wasp-waist chimney.
|Juno #3 store lamp, similar to the Rochester
#3 store lamp. Owned by Alex Muzyka.
Far left; Rochester Tavern or Store Lamp,
Photo of measuring lamp central air pillar.
This lamp is owned and was photographed by David W. in
Above, left: Globe Incandescent No
2.; Center above, Flame spreader indicia. Made by The Standard
Lighting Co., Cleveland, O. U. S. A. Above Right;
Globe Incandescent No. 2, Photo courtesy of Dick Stauffer.
At left, my Globe Incandescent No. 2 burning brightly for the
first time in over 70 years!!! The flame is a little
ragged because this is the first burn. To protect that
ultra rare, 4 1/2" wasp-waist chimney, the flame is adjusted
down considerably from the light output designed into the
lamp. The heat output of this lamp is sufficient to warm
a room all by itself.
Requires wick #3L.
I now have the proper
base, borosilicate chimneys for the Globe Incandescent #2,
Pittsburgh Mammoth and B&H #89.
INSTALLING WICKS IN CENTER
Plume & Atwood (P & A) lamp lines included
Royal, Plumwood and Naugatuck. Their burners included Banner, the
Moehring and Harvard burners for finer student lamps, the Hornet,
Nutmeg and Acorn burners often found on night lamps, etc. Though
not now as well known as the B & H lamps, their product line was
vastly more diversified and their Banner tip-over burner was
extremely well designed and clean burning. P & A’s Risdon facility
in Danbury, CT made some particularly outstanding flat wick lamps,
including bicycle lamps and brooder house heaters of exceptional
P&A made all the brass parts (founts and burners) for all
Bradley and Hubbard (B & H) is the most
widely recognized name in circular wick, center draft lamps,
producing these lamps beginning in 1875. B & H may have
purchased lamp bases made by independent artisans (the "Roycrofters"
movement) to fit their standard 4 15/16" burner units, as some of
the bases are incredibly unique and unsigned or unmarked: by 1888,
however, the company employed over 1000 people, so they also had their own
in-house artisans. Due to the extremely
high quality and unique beauty of these lamps, many have survived
the past century in excellent condition. B & H produced the Rayo
brand center draft wick under contract to Standard Oil Company. In
about 1940, the Parker company purchased B & H and continued
production of some less ornate B & H lamps and Rayo lamps until
the early 1950's. A flood in 1955 destroyed the factory and
Parker lamps were
manufactured from approximately 1870 until approximately 1931, but
in less quantity than P & A or B & H due to their diversity into a
wide variety of other products (Just try to buy a Parker
side-by-side shotgun!). In 1939 - 40 Parker acquired B & H, moved
their operations to B & H’s much more efficient production
equipment at Meriden, Connecticut, and continued production of
some models until the early 1950's.
MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR
Parts for the B & H and P & A lamps are
not interchangeable. B & H often used a burner with
inside threads, whereas P & A burners quite often had outside
threads, the diameters were different, etc. "Spider" shade holders for B & H
lamps are a little too large in diameter for P & A Royal burners.
Flame spreaders were of a different diameter, etc. They lamps may
look identical, but they have definite subtle differences which
preclude interchangeability of most parts. As both companies
manufactured many different models, parts are often not
interchangeable between lamps made by the same company only a few
years earlier or later.
The construction techniques used to make the
lamps were also different. Many B & H lamps are found today
with dents or creases in the body or top of the font, as the
brass used was quite thin. Pre-1898 P & A Royal lamps, on the other
hand, used brass about twice as thick, so it is rare to find a
dented P & A lamp. There are experts who can unsolder the
center draft tube from the bottom, gently smooth out dents, polish
the parts while disassembled, then solder the parts back together,
making an old dented B & H lamp look like new. Stress cracks
in the body of B & H fonts are another matter all together, as the
brass tank on the font inserts was a stamping and too thin for easily
repairing the stress cracks...a new (old) font in good condition
is usually required to salvage and use an exquisite lamp base
designed for a 4 15/16" font insert.
WARNING FOR LAMP REPAIRS AND RESTORATION!
There is a link on the Links
Page for lamp restoration, and
other quality, HONEST restorers are listed by Lanternet.com.
There is a tendency for honest, decent people to assume that others
are also honest and decent. Bad assumption, as there are always
crooks, thieves and swindlers that will take an opportunity to rip
people off if they can. That is particularly important with lamp
repairs, as usually the lamp or lantern must be sent off to a distant
location for repairs by someone you have never met nor are likely to
ever see. I have seen many lamps butchered by self-proclaimed
"experts" who ruin perfectly good lamps through sheer ignorance and
ego, claiming they can "repair anything" when in fact they are nothing
There is one lamp restorer who can
be recommended without any reservations at all -
David Ward of
The Village Lamp
Shop. David is a master craftsman, a true artist,
and has restored and
replated many of my lamps.
Robert Hazelton from the
Edward Miller &
Company, Meriden, Connecticut is very well regarded for restoring
Edward Miller lamps.
QUESTION FROM READER CARL:
Thanks for sending the wicks so
quickly! I wondering if you can give me
some insight, I have a Rayo lamp that I can get the burner apart I
have tried WD40. but it doesn't seem to be working... I was
wondering if I soak the whole burner in kerosene if that might
free the frozen part. the wick moves up and down fine. it just
where its suppose to separate. that I can't get it to move. and i
don't want to pry on it too much. Any help in this matter would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks Carl
There is a close fit on the
sliding parts, with a detent on the inner part requiring the outer
assembly to slide up and to the left with the detents in a groove.
You should be able to see the slight ridge of the groove at about
a 60 degree angle up to the left. When kerosene evaporates it
leaves behind a waxy film which can harden over the years, and the
evaporation also leaves a residue which is sticky.
Kerosene is not a solvent, so soaking in kerosene is not the
solution. Gasoline is a solvent and can dissolve the sticky
residue left from evaporated kerosene, but as with any solvent it
is flammable and must be used with care. WD-40 is a water
displacement oil (WD stands for water displacement), and is not
really a solvent, though it is thin enough to act as one on
thicker greases... which is not the problem you have.
No solvent on earth will dissolve wax, so generally heat is
applied with a small torch, then the parts separated when hot with
the aid of heavy leather gloves. Wax melts at approximately 150
degrees F, so not much heat is needed, certainly not enough to
discolor the brass.
One of the simplest ways that often works to separate the parts is
boiling water with some laundry detergent added. The detergent
will dissolve any sticky residue while the boiling water will
dissolve or soften the waxy residue. Detergent lowers the boiling
point of water from 212 F to about 180 F, but that is still
sufficient to melt the wax. Just put the burner assembly minus the
wick into boiling water with detergent, boil for 15 minutes or so,
then remove with tongs and separate the parts while hot and
wearing leather gloves.
Once separated, scour with auto polish/cleaner, which will remove
any residual traces of foreign matter, and the auto polish seals
the pores of the brass so reassembly is easy.
The next step, of course, is to avoid the problem in the future by
not using kerosene as a fuel. Paint Thinner - Low Odor Mineral
Spirits, will work wonderfully well as a fuel and is clean,
leaving no residue. Miles
I can't thank you enough for
your email, I tried the boiling water with detergent and it worked
just like you said it would. Came right apart after a few minutes.
Then I went over to the neighbor and got some gasoline and cleaned
off the rest of it. now it work like its suppose to. so Thanks
again that was a big help... I would of never guessed to do that,
and probably would have bent it trying to pry it apart. that would
have never worked. you got a friend in Pa... Carl
The chimney holders (fingers) should be adjusted (bent)
so they only gently hold the chimney in place - NOT TIGHTLY!
These lamps produce a lot of heat and glass expands with heat - if
gripped too tightly, the base of the chimney will break. To
avoid breaking the brass fingers which hold the chimney in place,
use a smooth bladed paddle pliers to bend the fingers, holding the
base of the finger with needle nose pliers.
Many P & A Royal lamps used a 2 1/2" fitter for
the chimney, whereas B & H usually used 2 5/8" chimney fitters.
The fit of the chimney to a center draft P & A lamp is quite
critical. The height of the glass chimney from the base to
the bulge should be 1 1/4" and the opening at the top of the
chimney should be 1 3/4" minimum (rolled edge top). There are quite a few cheap 2
1/2" chimneys for sale which have a height from the base to the
bulge of 1 5/8" and an opening of 1 3/4": the flame spreader is
not in the bulge, but within the 2 1/2" base diameter. These
lamps generate a considerable amount of heat and the flame
spreader not up into the bulge often results in the chimney
cracking horizontally at the base of the bulge on the first
burning! Those $4.10 chimneys that appear to be a good
buy turn out to be not so charming when they break the first time
you use them!
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Heater Information below
Center Draft Wicks - Wicks
available only from this Wick Shop.
Flat lamp wicks
Aladdin Lamp Wicks
Center Draft Lamp
from Junior "Tiny" to Mammoth lamps.
Fabulous "Sans Rival"
borosilicate chimney for 14''' Kosmos lamps
Student Lamp Sans Rival Chimney with
1 7/8" fitter!!!
Standard glass lamp chimneys
Sonnenbrenner Lamp Chimneys
Information on lamps:
Center Draft Kerosene Lamps
(Photos, information and history, etc)
restored center draft lamps
Care, Feeding and Restoration of Center Draft
installation for many)
Lamp manufacturers and brand names
- Dimension of
nominal base diameter by make, model and "line".
Early American Metal Font & Specialty Lamps
Aladdin Lamp History
Aladdin Lamp Wicks & Chimneys,
Aladdin - Exploded burner views
Flame Spreaders and
- Vulcan, Imperial, Veritas,
Belgian, Hinks, Messenger's, Young's Court, etc.
Articles by Alex Marrack:
Site Index for all things Perfection
Kindler Wicking For Oil Stoves & Ranges
Alphabetical list of most kerosene heaters and the proper wick,
& cart checkout.
List by wick number and the heaters that fit them. (A
helpful guide for buying on eBay)
Measurements needed if you have an unlisted heater.
Care and Maintenance of Kerosene Heater Wicks
Installing Kerosene Heater Wicks - generic for unpinned
Owner's_Manuals & information for many kerosene heaters
Heaters - General types, how they work, recommendations
for some good ones - and those I would avoid.
Economic Benefits of
Troubleshooting kerosene heater common problems
In New Kerosene Appliances
Kerosene Heaters at Night
WATER IN KEROSENE causing "dwindling" and poor
Flame Spreader Heaters
and Lamps -
A Century of Excellence
Kerosene Heater Carts
why carry your heater around?
Kerosene Fuel Primer
Kerosene tank cradles
Building a Cradle
HEATERS MADE IN THE NETHERLANDS
Beatrice Boiling Stoves & Mini kerosene heaters
you can make
Sad Iron stoves; Wicks &
Wicking For Oil
Burning "WICKLESS" Stoves & Ranges
Kerosene Stoves, Lanterns and Ovens
Kerosene Stoves -
Recommendations on different models
Stove Maintenance and Storage
Butterfly A-822, 22 wick, all-aluminum
Butterfly #2487, 16 wick stove.
Butterfly #2412 Pressure
instructions for virtually any pressure stove.
Double Burner Stove;
good with any gravity flow stove.
Oven for Kerosene Stoves
Butterfly #2641, 10 Wick Stove
the least expensive emergency stove.
Butterfly #2698 Cook Stove -
THE Best Heavy Duty Cook Stove.
#828R Pressure Lantern;
same for most pressure lanterns.
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