
BUTTERFLY #2418 DOUBLE
BURNER STOVE
(The operating instructions
apply to all of the Butterfly gravity flow stoves as
well as Wards and other gravity flow
"wickless"
stoves made in America in the first half of the
20th century.)
For those living in a safe location,
the best kerosene cook stove I have used is the Butterfly
#2418 double burner stove. This stove is large, measuring
approximately 30 inches long, 12 inches wide and a foot
high, and weighs about 14 pounds. This size and weight
makes the #2418 extremely stable in use, and the two
burners allow meals to be easily cooked. You can even cook
on one burner while using the oven over the other burner.
This is a saturated wick design stove, which means the
fuel is fed to the wick through a valve, and it is the
valve which controls the flow of fuel, and therefore the
flame height or BTU output. That means this stove is
designed to be used on a level counter top, not
perched among rocks beside a tent. Yes, you can move the
#2418, but it was designed for everyday use in a fixed
location rather than as a camping or portable stove. In
the Philippines and Indonesia, in fact throughout most of
the Far East and Southeast Asia, this is the stove
of choice for every day use, if they can afford it.
The alternative is to cook with twigs under a
grate...rather primitive at best.
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Notice that the glass fuel tank fits
between the burners into a protected hole in the heavy top
plate. The "saturated wick" image shows the fixed wick
design and the bottom of the catalytic converter: the wick
does not raise or lower to adjust the flame height
as is the case with every other wick stove or heater I
have ever seen. With gravity flow or "wickless" stoves, fuel flow or volume
determines the amount of heat output, and that is
controlled by minor turning of the red handle.
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To use the Butterfly #2418, the
fuel tank is filled, then inverted and lowered by the wire
handle into a receptacle. The fuel tank cap has a
protruding pin held open by a spring, and when the tank is
in position, the pin is pushed up and fuel can flow into
the tube assembly via gravity. Opening the red valve under
the burner allows fuel to flow to the wick, which then
becomes saturated with fuel in about a minute or two. The
catalytic converter unit is then raised and the wick
touched with a match, and the top edge of the wick burns
the fuel. At first the flame is a bit high, a result of
the catalytic converter unit not being up to operating
temperature and the saturated nature of the wick.
Controlling the height of the flame
is done by closing the valve, then opening it up about
1/8th of a turn. Only slight turning of the red knob is
necessary to adjust the heat output, but remember that
there is already fuel in the wick, so adjustments usually
take about 20 to 30 seconds to become effective. Moral of
the story: be patient when adjusting the flame height, and
you will soon become accustomed to its operation. You will
be rewarded with totally silent operation, even and steady
heat, and absolutely reliable operation. To turn off the
Butterfly #2418 pressure stove, simply turn off the flow of fuel by
gently turning the red knob to the right until it
stops. There is no need to twist hard on the red knob and
try to damage the needle valve at its bottom. The fuel
flow will be stopped by gently turning the valve closed,
and in a minute or so the residual fuel will be consumed
and the stove will go out.
The fuel reservoir on the Butterfly
#2418 Pressure Stove holds 1.85 quarts, and burn time is
approximately 12.5 hours per burner. Using both burners
reduces the refill time to approximately 6 hours, which is
more than adequate for 3 or 4 days of use even when using
the oven to bake bread, for example. A gallon of kerosene
should be sufficient for a week of cooking and baking
normal, regular "made from scratch" meals.
The wick for the Butterfly #2418 is
approximately 10 ½" by 7/8". This special wick fits down
into a thin slot and the top edge only is what supports
the flame: the wick itself does not burn, of course. How
long will a wick last? In Asia, many users report that
wicks can last up to a decade, but they are experienced
users. I can guarantee you that your first wick won’t last
that long...figure 6 months of every day use for the first
wick. After you gain expertise, wicks will last longer.
The trick is to never light the wick before it has become
saturated with fuel, and when the stove is turned off, to
let the flame die out on its own. Once one "side" of a
wick has become ragged after long use, turn it upside down
and start all over with a new burning edge!
ASSEMBLY HINTS
[Refer to the illustration above for
details of how the pieces fit together.]
The Butterfly #2418 dual burner stove
comes unassembled. All you need for assembly is a flat
bladed screwdriver and a 9 mm socket or wrench, or a small
crescent wrench. The back and bottom are one piece. Begin
by first placing the long tube with fittings for the wicks
and tanks (part #808A) on the bottom, with the brackets
over the ends, line up the holes, then fasten finger tight
only: the unit will be aligned and tightened once assembly
is complete. Assembly can easily take 3 hours, so be
patient.
Next affix the end pieces: notice they
are notched at the bottom. The top plate (part #1002a) is
attached next, and when it is tightened up the unit
becomes square and straight. Then fit the two flat support
braces inside the stove: see the illustration above. The
screw flanges are placed facing inward toward the tank,
and the narrowest part of the cutout for the tube assembly
is placed toward the front (there is a raised section of
the base to guide you in this operation – just match up
the width of the flange with the base).
Now it is time to assemble the tank.
Very carefully bend the top of the wire loops inward, then
spring the wire handle loops through the holes in the band
projection. Work slowly and carefully – don’t break the
glass.
Now put the fuel tank (part #101) down
through the center hole in the top plate until it mates
with the receptacle. It won’t fit evenly, which is why you
left the bracket screws loose. Move the bracket forward or
backward until the glass reservoir fits squarely on its
base and is centered in the access hole on the top plate
of the stove, then tighten the two bolts and nuts on each
side of part #808A, and tighten all nuts and bolts on the
stove. Next put the red knobbed fuel flow needle valves
(part #707) into their tubes, and tighten very gently.
Finally, put the wicks on edge (part
#606) into their slots, with the slight opening toward the
front (see illustration above), making sure the wicks are
seated uniformily at the bottom of their slots.
Lower the catalytic converter (part
#505) down over the wicks and wiggle until it is centered,
then put the cooking bracket (part #303) on the top plate
(match up the 4 holes in the top plate), and you are ready
to put fuel into the tank and use the stove!
IMPORTANT: Open
the fuel control valve and let the wick become fully
saturated before lighting - every time!
Just opening the valve for a couple of minutes
before use should extend your wick life by a factor of
years.
Pages on this web
site:
Complete Site Index
Information on Kerosene Heaters
and Wicks
Kerosene tank cradles
(photo)
Building a Cradle
Information on Kerosene Stoves, Lanterns and Ovens
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